Munich Old Town North ~ Ludwigstrasse & Oktoberfest
September 25, 2006
 

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It’s 9:15 AM and I am just catching up on my journal.  I move back to the Intercity Hotel by the train station again today.  I went back to the Intercity Hotel at about 10:30 AM and the room wasn’t ready but I figured it wouldn’t be.  I dropped off my luggage which is what I really wanted to do and headed out to do some exploring.  I validated my Munich 3 day welcome card and also had my subway pass from the hotel.  It was a good thing because at the second stop on my way to the Universtat U-Bahn stop a couple standing right next to me jumped into action checking for U-Bahn tickets.  They were definitely undercover security; you would have never figured them to be U-Bahn security which I guess is the best way to run that type of operation.  They got some lady without a ticket and pulled her off the train to give her a 40 Euro fine.

My plan was to get off the U-Bahn at the Universtat stop to see Siegestor and then walk down the main road in this area, Ludwigstrasse, then head towards the Marienplatz and back to the hotel to check in before heading to the Oktoberfest grounds again for the evening.

I got off at Universtat and for once predicted the correct way out of the subway.  I came up right at the Siegestor.  The Siegestor is Munich’s Victory Arch built between 1843 and 1850.  It was designed after the Arch of Constantine in Rome and was destroyed during WWII but rebuilt with the inscription, “Dedicated to victory, destroyed during the war, appeals for peace.  It was originally built to memorialize the country’s victory over Napoleon.  It divides Ludwigstrasse and Leopoldstrase on the main road in this area.

I walked down Ludwigstrasse past the Ludwig Maximilian University which has a couple of beautiful fountains on each side of the street in the courtyards.  Next on the walking tour was a stop at Ludwig’s Church.  It’s very non descript on the outside but the inside is magnificent.  The walls and ceilings are decorated with Italian Renaissance style paintings including a painting of the Last Judgment that is the second largest to Michelangelo’s in the Sistine Chapel at Vatican City.  It was built between 1829 and 1843. 

Continuing down Ludwigstrasse I passed the Monument to Ludwig I in Odeonsplatz Square was created by Max Widmann in 1862.  My next destination was in near the Odeonsplatz U-Bahn stop.  There were 2 sights here.  First the Feldherrnhalle, built between 1841 and 1844 to honor Field Marshals Johann Tilly and Karl Philipp von Wrede who have statues inside the loggia.  More importantly this was the area where Adolf Hitler announced the start of the people’s revolution on November 8, 1932 and ordered the takeover of the central districts of Munich.  About 2000 people marched to the Feldherrnhalle and were stopped by police.  Four police and 16 of Hitler’s supporters were shot.  The marchers were dispersed and Hitler fled but was found, arrested and imprisoned.  When he took power in 1933 he turned this event which was then known as the Hitler Putsch or Hitler Revolt into a central element of the Nazi cult.

In the same square next to the Feldeherrnhalle is St. Cajetan’s Church.  It has two definite themes.  Outside, the baroque is painted all yellow which sets it off from everything else in the area.  Inside the church is almost completely white with amazing stucco work everywhere.  The only different color is the pulpit and confessionals which are black.  There is a crypt in this church that contains tombs of dukes and kings of Bavaria but I skipped that.  There was a priest walking around trying to get everyone to stop and pray.  There were no signs saying no photographs but he would go up to everyone with a camera and ask them to pray instead of take photos.  He didn’t necessarily tell anyone to stop; he just wanted people to pray.   

From St. Cajetan’s Church which was also known as Theatinerkirche I headed towards Marienplatz and found my way to the Hofbrauhaus.  I stopped to have a beer and giant pretzel and read the USA Today I purchased at a stand in the area.  It’s very touristy but it has to be done when you’re in Munich.  Actually, this was the first time I have been here during the day and it was way more packed than it has been at the nighttime.  All the courtyards were filled.  Of course with my luck I was wearing my Redskins Sean Taylor jersey and had a Cowboy fan come up to me to give a “How bout those Cowboys”.  Just what I needed 5000 miles away from home, to be harassed in the Hofbrauhaus by a Cowboy fan.  Her name was Cynthia and she ended up being a very nice lady.  She lived in Dallas but had moved to Louisville and apparently was a member of a ton of organizations.  Everything she mentioned that she did was in conjunction with some organization like Dallas Cowboy Fan Club of Louisville, ski club or German American Club (even though she wasn’t German).  She had been to many Oktoberfest’s apparently and just loved going to them.     

I finished my beer and started towards Marienplatz and noticed an outside beer garden overlooking a market.  It was another beautiful day so I went up and had a half liter at the Rischart Café am Markt.  From the Rischart Café am Markt I went to the actual outdoor market which was called Viktualienmarkt.  It was packed as much as the Oktoberfest tents.  There has been a market here since the beginning of the 19^th century.  It was at this point that I noticed again how much people from Munich love beer.  It was 2:30 PM on a Tuesday and this is the third place I’ve been that is packed with people drinking.  This is on top Oktoberfest where 6 million people are here to drink beer and I’m sure on a day as nice as this was that the Englischer Garden beer gardens were probably packed also.

I jumped on the tram at the market that took me directly back to the train station and the hotel.  I checked into my room and downloaded all the pictures I had taken during the day and checked my email.  The connection in this room is way better than the connection down in the lobby.  As soon as I turned on the computer I got the notice that I am connected.  I chilled out for a little before heading back out to Oktoberfest.

I started out at the Hofbrau Tent where I know I could at least go into the middle section to get a beer.  They have really increased security at this tent.  I guess they’ve had way too many beer glasses stolen.  They checked my backpack before and after I left.  Another weird thing was the guy looked at my camera and thought I was with the press and said I had to put it away and that I needed a press pass to take pictures.   I didn’t even try to argue.  I put the camera away and would pull it later if need be.  There would be no need.  I got into the middle standing section for a minute and it was madness.  I did want to fight the crowd so I left in search of another tent.

I have enjoyed the walk to the Oktoberfest grounds since it’s only about 10 to 15 minutes away.  Once again it is completely packed but I found room at a table outside of the Schottenhammel Tent.  It is here I met Simon from Australia, Sven from Sweden and Reinhardt, Alfred and Hans from Germany.  We spent the night trying to understand one another and had a great time.  Simon and Sven work together in Toulouse, France and like everyone I’ve talked to don’t like the French.  Reinhardt and Alfred work together and live north of Munich.  Reinhardt spoke a little English, Alfred hardly any and Alfred was hammered.  Hans showed up towards the end and had a beer.  Hans didn’t speak any English and was about 70 years old.  They all wondered how I was received after saying I was from Washington, DC.  Drunk Alfred kept thinking I was from Texas not Washington even though Reinhardt kept correcting him.  Really no one has said anything about being from Washington.  Everyone at Oktoberfest is there to have a good time and nobody really judges you for whom or where you are from.  They asked if I was Catholic and tried to tell them I was Episcopalian but I didn’t really practice any religion.  I told Reinhardt the only time I go to church is when I’m overseas sightseeing like today.

They were all intrigued by my camera as they all had the little pocket sized ones.  I explained it was my one big hobby.  They laughed when I told them about the Hofbrau Tent and the security guard thinking I was with the press.  Simon and Sven eventually left and headed to a tent next door where a friend had reservations for a table inside.  They didn’t really want to leave and had one more beer after they had said they had to leave.  When they left and Hans left after his one beer I hung out with Alfred and Reinhardt for one more beer.  They bought a mas for me which beat me to the punch as I was going to buy one for them.  I have a bunch of pages in my notebook of Reinhardt and me trying to communicate.  His English was good but he struggled with how fast I would talk.  I explained the only way we could communicate was his English because I don’t understand any German.

This brings me to another point I’ve wanted to write for awhile.  No matter what German’s are saying to each other the German language makes it sound like they are arguing.  They could be saying I love you and it still sounds like they are having a huge fight.  I was running on fumes so I finished my last beer and headed for the hotel.  Reinhardt was a good guy.  I have a web address for his father, who is involved in the hops industry.  I told him I would email him the pictures I took of this night.

I grabbed a bratwurst before leaving for the hotel and then got some calamari and a liter of Coca Cola Light for the room.  I have probably spent more money at this one store in the train station on Coca Cola Light than anything else I have on this trip.  I got back to the room, downloaded the pictures and talk to home thru the Windows Messenger.  I ended up going to bed at about midnight.

Return To Stuttgart To Munich & Cannstatter Volksfest Parade
September 24, 2007

Continue To Munich - Residenz Museum & Oktoberfest
September 26, 2007